Raw denim is the fabric in its purest form, directly from the loom and the dyeing process, it has not been washed or treated.
It retains its original indigo color, its touch is more rigid, and with use it acquires a less uniform appearance than we are used to. This is what makes raw denim so special, the way the color will wear based on your use, habits and style over time.
Sanforized and shrinkage.
Some consider that only denim directly from the loom can be called raw denim. Others include sanforizing or pre-shrinking, a process that exposes denim to water and steam to reduce the amount of shrinkage that can occur after the first wash of the jeans.
Unsanforized denim is often referred to as “dry”, since it has not been exposed to water or steam at all. But the sanforized denim, which has not yet been treated or washed, still falls under the umbrella of the raw denim since it maintains the process of molding or “domestication” as well as its wear results.
In its first wash, a sanforized denim will shrink approximately 1-2%, while unsanforized up to 10%. In this case, Xiro uses sanforized denim in all of his designs, so choosing your standard size is a safe option, since shrinkage is minimal and over time all jeans stretch around the waist.
Why is it more sustainable?
Nowadays there is already sustainable technology that allows to wash and wear jeans without a great environmental impact or having a negative impact on the health of workers, however we believe that the raw denim has an eco plus, since post-processes are avoided assuming a saving of water, energy and chemical substances.
There are many types of treatments for jeans, but they definitely do nothing but wear them out for us. After prolonged use we will achieve similar results (softened, discolored, broken, tears, …) without decreasing useful lifetime
How to break your jeans in.
Prefieres ir por la via rápida? No es tan guapo pero sin problema! Un paso por la lavadora (dale algún uso antes!) ablandará la rigidez inicial del tejido pero estaremos desbaratando la posibilidad de conseguir los desgastes propios del raw denim. Éstos serán más uniformes.
También lo podemos hacer de una forma totalmente natural y es que para domesticarlo y suavizarlo sólamente se necesitan tus propias aventuras. Tardará un tiempo en ablandar, el raw denim puede tender a sentirse algo inconfortable cuando su gramaje es heavy, simplemente porque no se ha lavado ni suavizado. Nuestros jeans en general tienen un gramaje medium por lo que no será para tanto. Las ventajas son que el tejido se va amoldando a tu cuerpo y, como hemos mencionado, el color se va desgastando más por las zonas más “activas” de tu cuerpo.
Ah! un rápido remojo inicial (en frío) antes de ponerte los vaqueros realmente puede ayudar, eliminará parte del almidón. Es posible que gracias a esto duren más 🙂
The first months of raw denim are important, but it depends on your preferences. The best thing would be to simply use them as much as possible, everywhere, to break in. Times are flexible and the use of washing machine is valid if you want. Even so, let’s see what would be the ideal treatment in these beginnings:
First wash at 3-6 months. Just according to the use that is given to jeans and what each one considers necessary. It is important to delay this first wash a little because:
-We do not interrupt the process of adapting the jeans to the body.
-The original color remains, causing a greater contrast between it and the wear that is produced due to friction, postures and movements that we perform in our day to day.
- Cover the bottom of the bathtub with lukewarm water.
- Add a teaspoon of detergent (preferably eco)
- Turn the ecojeans inside out and put them in the bathtub.
- Let them soak for an hour. You can put weights on top so that they are completely submerged. We shake from time to time (optional).
- Empty the tub and rinse the jeans off with cold water to remove the soap.
- Dry outdoors or near a window avoiding direct and prolonged exposure to the sun. It is important that the pants are as extended as possible, avoiding folds and wrinkles that we are not interested in being marked.
I don’t have time for this, will I mess everything up if I use the washing machine? We have done it many times and the results are correct. Just remember to put it at 30º with dark clothes and a delicate cycle.
Contrasts or durability? How often to wash your raw denim
After the first wash, how long you will leave between the next ones is your choice, it can be 1 month, 2, 3, … Maybe what matters to you is not the contrasts, but the jeans remain dark.
What you should keep in mind is that the more you wash your jeans, the greater the amount of indigo will disappear, the greater the wear of the fabric and the less the contrast of the fades. On the contrary, the less washed, the greater the contrast but also the denim will be more fragile.
During periods of time between washes we can eliminate odors simply by laying it outdoors or near a window at night.
The wear and tear that is produced is personal depending on the body and movements of each one, and the fabric yields in those parts where you need it, which makes it a unique and comfortable garment that says a lot about us and our daily routines .
* It should be remembered that spacing washes a lot can lead to a greater risk of breakage, that’s why we will dedicate a post to patching jeans. Following our philosophy of looking for the most sustainable options, we recommend: patch, fix, customize … in short … extend the life of our clothes as much as possible 🙂